ドメーヌ・ウィリアム・フェーブル シャブリ 1er ヴォロラン [2015]750ml (白ワイン)

250年の歴史があり最も多くのシャブリのグラン・クリュ畑を有する名門!
シャブリでは圧倒的少数の手摘みと選果台導入で品質が向上。テロワールを表現することにこだわっています。

1850年設立され、現在の社名となっているウィリアム フェーブルが相続しました。氏は積極的に畑を買い増し拡張。うちグラン・クリュが15.2ha、プルミエ・クリュが15.9haを占め、最大のグラン・クリュ所有ドメーヌとなりました。

比類ない銘醸畑から生まれるワインは極めて高い評価を得る一方でシャブリ全体の地位を守るための活動(新大陸ワインでの「シャブリ」名称乱用の撲滅、キンメリジャン土壌でない土地での「シャブリ」呼称使用への反対など)にも尽力しました。1998年から醸造家ディディエ セギエを抜擢し、類いまれな畑の能力を最大限生かすため様々な改革を実施。果実味あふれるワイン造りに転換し、現在ではビオロジック農法(一部ビオディナミ農法)を取り入れさらに評価を高めています。

「シャブリ 1er ヴォロラン」は、グランクリュのに隣接しており、力強くミネラルを思わせる風味豊かでグラン・クリュのレベルに近いワイン。短時間プレス(1時間-2時間)し低温にて軽く清澄。樽発酵30-50%、ステンレス発酵50-70%。13-14ヶ月熟成(40-50%は小樽で5-6ヶ月熟成、残りの期間ステンレスタンクへ)

他のプルミエクリュに比べ全体のバランスが一回り大きく、厚みのあるボディーと力強くミネラルを思わせる風味が豊か。全てにおいてグランクリュのレベルに近い味わい。

2015年ヴィンテージ情報
2015年のシャブリは、偉大な年になると評判のコート ドールとは性格の異なる年となりました。1月までの暖冬が一変し、2月と3月の低温。4月は夏のような気温があった日もあれば、その後の急激な温度変化。何よりも5月下旬に氷点下の気温は記憶にない程で、霜の害も加わり収穫量が減る一因となりました。7月は全く雨が降らなかったことも驚きでしたが、春の低温時の雨と8月の雨によって救われ、順調に収穫1週間前までというところでの雹を伴う嵐。そのため収穫を3日前倒しして行い、雹害で傷がついたブドウが腐敗の始まる前に素早く摘む、という対応を行い、結果理想的な糖度のブドウを収穫することができました。

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS PREMIER CRU VAULORENT
ドメーヌ・ウィリアム・フェーブル シャブリ 1er ヴォロラン
生産地：フランス ブルゴーニュ シャブリ
原産地呼称：AOC. CHABLIS
ぶどう品種：シャルドネ 100%
アルコール度数：13.0%
味わい：白ワイン 辛口

ワインアドヴォケイト：92 ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 92 Reviewed by: Neal Martin Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2018 - 2028
The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent showed so well when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle， it has a well-defined bouquet with hints of white flower developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity. A very pretty Chablis with hints of orange sorbet and dried apricot leading to a precise and classy finish. What a superb Vaulorent-this comes recommended.

My rendezvous with Didier Seguier， head winemaker at William Fevre， was at their tasting room in Chablis ville， opposite the Bistro de Grand Cru. As usual， we tasted through their comprehensive portfolio， first with the 2015s， of which all but the entry-level wines are still in tank on their lees and due for bottling next year. Then we broached the 2014s in bottle. “Flowering passed well with just a little coulure in Premier and Grand Cru，” Didier explained. “There was a storm in the second week of August and we needed the rain as it had been hot since the beginning of June [in fact， there was hardly a drop in June or July， which resulted in some hydric stress]. Then there was the hailstorm on August 31 and we started the picking on September 3， commencing with three areas that had been impacted by the hail: Montmains， Les Clos and in Montee de Tonnerre. The alcohol levels came in between 12 degrees and 13.5 degrees.” Some of the facts and figures on their 2015 vintage report make an interesting reading: a 75% drop in rainfall in June and July， with August 66% wetter than usual， but because of that hailstorm on August 13， there was 13% more sunshine hours than average--in particular during April， June and July. Didier actually compared the 2015 to the 2009 vintage when I asked if any came to mind， which is a fair comparison given the warmth of those two seasons， though the jury is out whether 2015 actually surpasses the 2009. Didier’s use of barrel is always astute. Long gone are the days when William Fevre was known (infamous?) for its oaky Chablis; now they use oak barrels that are between three- and five-year-old， much more discrete and playing a supporting rather than main role. Fevre also presciently used alternative closures， a trend in the Chablis region. “Everything is bottled under DIAM， which we have been using since 2006. We have opened some of those bottles and they are still so fresh.” Tasting through the portfolio of William Fevre is a good litmus test of the vintage. since they boast such a deep array of Premier and Grand Crus， as well as very popular entry-level wines. There are stellar wines here from Bougros Cote de Bourgerot and Valmur， while others such as Vaudesir just seem to not click into top gear when compared with others. As I anticipated， their 2015s seems rounded and more approachable than 2014--less nerve and race， although I adored the Mont de Milieu and Vaulorent this year. Some of the 2014s are very special， in particular a very impressive， mineral-driven Les Lys. While this is not the more well-known Premier Cru， here it is demonstrating exactly what it can do.

Head winemaker Didier Seguier has steered this important Chablis producer， part of the Henriot group， since its acquisition in 1998. Previously he worked as assistant winemaker at Bouchard Pere & Fils， so he already had experience under his belt， steering what was then a very oaky style of Chablis to one that was much more terroir driven and for want of a better word， just more "Chablis." We focused mainly on the 2016s， with a smattering of 2015s that had been bottled since my visit last year. They suffered frost on 19， 25 and 27 April， when the temperature tumbled to -2.8 Celsius in some sectors. Around 30 hectares were completely destroyed， while vineyards such as Vaulorent， Montee de Tonnerre， Mont de Milieu and Montmains suffered around 50% damage. Then there was 240 millimeters of rain in May that caused wide mildew pressure from 8 June onward， especially in Les Preuses and Vaulorent. Flowering took place on 20 June and then there were two periods of warm weather on 22/23 June and 8 to 10 July， when temperatures increased up to almost 40 Celsius. From 14 July to 1 September it was hot and dry， causing grillure (burning of the berries) in some of the more exposed vineyards. The warm and dry conditions would have threatened to halt the growing cycle of the vines， though fortunately 15 millimeters of rainfall on 15 September spurred things on toward maturity， so that the first bunches could be picked on 22 September in healthy， sanitary conditions. Yields were generally weak: 18 hectoliters per hectare in Chablis， 15 to 25 hectoliters per hectare in premier crus affected by the frost and 35 to 40 hectoliters per hectare in the least affected vines. Generally， William Fevres 2016s showed well， although with all the sturm und drang， it is no wonder that the Vaulorent did not live up to the quality of the superior 2015. The traumatic beginning of the 2016 growing season seemed to affect some vineyards more than others with Montee de Tonerre， for example， showing much better than Mont de Milieu. I would have liked just one or two of their array of grand crus to broach the 95 point mark， although their Bougros Cote de Bouguerots does come very close， the standout 2016 from William Fevre. Published: Sep 01， 2017